I didn't, and the decals continue to hold well to the surface.īy the time you've finished detailing your tank with the parts sprues and decals, your tank's battery should be fully charged and you're ready for your first full run. After applying them, you may want to seal them in with a clear coat. The instruction manual includes clear diagrams to locate every cosmetic part.Īpply the decals, as desired, on a cleaned and dried surface, using the instruction manual's clear diagrams. In the case of the Panther G, this took me about 15-20 minutes. While the tank's battery is charging, attach the plastic cosmetic parts. Once you're done verifying everything works, plug the tank's battery into the charger, since it only arrives with a storage charge. The main thing you'll need to run the tank out of the box is six AA batteries for the tank's radio.Īssembly of the tank itself is complete, and the tank can be running literally within a couple minutes of opening the box and inserting the batteries. The glycerin needed for the smoker may not be included depending on your area's local shipping restrictions, but it's cheap enough to source locally. The tank arrives RTR, with a radio, tank, accessories, 2s 7.4v 1800mAh tank battery, tank battery charger, and plastic BBs. There are "Late" and "Early" variations, and many field modified examples that include side skirt armor, zemerrit anti-magnetic coating, and spare tracks arrayed along the turret for added protection. The "G" version is most readily identified by the "chin" on the lower mantlet, which is the area of armor where the barrel meets the turret. Heng Long has depicted the Panther "G" version in 1/16 scale. Indeed, its own engine was often a more formidable foe than any enemy tank. At nearly 45 tons and mounting a 75mm KwK 42 L/70 cannon with one of the highest muzzle velocities of any tank in the war, the Panther was a fearsome weapon on the battlefield. The Panther is considered by many to be one of the best tanks that saw action during World War II.
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